How do Professional Walkers work and the all important why? Find answers to the most frequently asked questions here.
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How do Professional Walkers work and the all important why? Find answers to the most frequently asked questions here.
Healthy, happy, well-adjusted dogs. Dogs have mental and physical requirements. If they are not properly stimulated, it will play out behaviourally. Besides taking care of potty needs, well-stimulated pups are calm and restful, appropriately interpreted ones. In this way, a professional Walker will ensure their pups are well-adjusted. One must have superior assessment skills, positive training knowledge and management practices to deliver that.
Peace of Mind. Professional Walkers will have formal training in animal CPR and positive behavioural management techniques. They are knowledgeable, trustworthy, qualified, and an Owner’s best resource for information.
Hiring a professional ensures that your pup is living their best, stimulated, healthy—hopefully social—life, while in care.
Please see How to Hire a Walker.
Here and Now
Currently, the industry does not have a system of accountability for one to be compliant to. There is no mandatory skills assessment, skills-based licensing or regulation in the industry. Walkers, Trainers and Parents have expressed a strong requirement for these and CDWA was formed to provide the framework for these systems. We are new, and walkers are still feeling CDWA out. CDWA does represent change, however positive, progressive and responsible.
As CDWA grows, we hope to vet and endorse the greater majority of working Walkers so that Parents can rely on their guidance, and have peace of mind in sharing keys to their homes and pet(s) to a service provider that is a properly trained professional.
Tier one of the vetting and endorsement process takes about one month, end-to-end, and Walker membership costs are low. The whole process is achievable, financially feasible, barrier-free and loaded with reward for achievements. In tier two vetting, we work with industry educators to facilitate skills development, and implement industry-wide standards, in practice.
It is every Parent’s right to work with a Walker who is best-in-class. Each Walker’s membership to CDWA means they are engaged constructively in their own and the industry’s betterment. Working with sentient beings requires that, at minimum.
There are a number of factors to consider when hiring a Walker. CDWA’s endorses those who have the following professional credentials.
Animal First Aid. Walkers must have completed an animal first aid (CPR) course. Many repeat the training every few years, some don’t. We ask Members to refresh their knowledge every three years.
Formal Training. Members have formal training, either by Mentors, Trainers or Schools. They must be either LIMA-based Balanced, Positive Reinforcement or Force-Free practitioners. Learn more about what this means.
Reactive Dogs. If you have a reactive pup, give particular weight and importance to Walkers and Trainers who are formally trained to work with reactive dogs. The training provides foundational information for working with dogs with behavioural issues, whether genetic or experiential. In the interest of responsible dog ownership, owners are encouraged to provide reactive dogs with a Trainer who would then brief the Walker on the strategies used that will complement and further train while out on walks. A Walker’s time with your reactive dog should be therapeutic. Depending on the behaviours presented, some dogs may only qualify for Trainer-led walks (“Walk and Train”) or private walks with a knowledgeable and competent Walker.
Insurance, Permit. Valid insurances are necessary when hiring a Walker who offers group walks and leash-free jaunts to multiples of dogs (business liability insurance), and those who transport dogs in vehicles (auto insurance). Owners may ask for an insurer-supplied Certificate of Insurance that proves the policy is active and current. Insurance protects pups and guarantees veterinary assistance if something happens.
Many Canadian cities require Walkers to obtain permits when walking multiples of dogs. Generally speaking, municipalities request proof of insurance to obtain a permit. The municipalities do not provide permits on evidence of training or skills assessment.
Police Clearance Letter. This background check also serves as a form of bonding. Many Walkers have a valid Clearance Letter from local police that states he/she has no criminal record. CDWA suggests that Clearance Letters be updated every five years.
References. Generally speaking, Walkers have clients, websites, and business pages on Facebook and Google. Access testimonials and ask to speak to references.
New Walkers. As with every industry, there is a lot to know. The industry has great resources available for mentorship and training. All new Walkers are encouraged to train prior to working with dogs. If you are an aspiring Walker, contact us for where to start.
See full vetting criteria at How to Hire a Walker.
Please see our Suggestions for Interviewing a Walker. This does not replace CDWA’s vetting and endorsement process but it can be helpful if you need a Walker urgently. If you have time to hire, please refer to us for Endorsed Walkers or refer your candidate to CDWA for vetting.
• Choose someone who is knowledgeable and likeable—someone you will respect and work with, long term—hopefully, for the duration of the pup’s life.
• Transparency is very important. Walkers who are searchable with websites, business pages on Facebook and a Google listing with pictures and video offer more to assess them by. As well, Walkers must be transparent about what training model they subscribe to, how they treat dogs in care, and the tools they use, like prong, slip, choke and electric collars. CDWA does not endorse their use and you may not either.
• The more professional Walkers will want to assess your dog. They require full disclosure so they are confident that their skills or service model meets the requirement and that your pup will be compatible with others. Please disclose all behavioural and medical information so that the right Walker and model is paired with your pup.
• Professional Walkers have client contracts. The more thorough their contract is, the more they understand the nuances of their business and value professionalism and their clients, human and canine. For instance, a Walker charging $10/hour without a contract is likely not a professional. Expect to pay a median rate of $20-$30/hour (group) or $25-$35/hour (private).
• While interviewing, Owners and Walkers evaluate fit on both sides. Walkers support responsible dog ownership principles and will advocate for dogs in their care.
• The relationship between an Owner and Walker is often close and includes frequent communication and constructive support of the dog(s). The more trained a Walker is, the more you can rely on the information and recommendations they share.
• If you are an experienced, trained owner, ask questions about how the Walker would handle your dog in a variety of situations that are unique to your dog. You’re in a good position to assess his/her knowledge and practices.
Walkers are not trainers, however they should have a strong foundational knowledge of the basic principles. Some Walkers have limited training experience from formal education acquired, or from working with pups with a treatment plan that was created by a trainer. Unless a Walker is certified, he or she should refer Owners to a Certified Trainer if a pup requires that support. The benefits of proper training are countless and life-long.
Signs that a pup needs a Certified Trainer
• pup presents with fear/reactivity/aggression toward pups or people
• pup presents with distress in situations that should not normally cause a severe response
• pup presents with destructive or chronic behavioural issues that general management techniques don’t improve, requiring behaviour modification
• pup presents with separation anxiety – a serious issue that must be addressed urgently
Your Walker is your best resource to determine whether a pup needs Trainer support. An experienced Walker will recognize the signs readily and start the conversation. Trainers are not as costly as one might think and, more importantly, the dog will be properly supported through issues. Proper treatment through issues gives you a healthy pup who blossoms into ten times the pup you had. A Walker’s role through that process is to support the trainer, family and pup by reinforcing the training plan while the pup is in care.
To find a Certified Trainer, visit the trainer directories at either of these websites and search for one in your area:
Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers
Karen Pryor Academy
Academy for Dog Trainers
Walkers carry fairly significant liability. The busier ones have business liability and auto insurances, with canine clients co-insured within both. In the event of an accident, either of these insurances will ensure that injured pups receive immediate and necessary veterinary assistance.
While Canadian jurisdictions may have slight differences between them, insurance is required to obtain a City Permit when a Walker has multiple dogs in their care at any one time.
If a Walker does not have insurance, it should only be because they have a start-up business, and are under the threshold for mandatory insurance, per the municipality they live in. That said, dogs are full of surprises, making a new and possibly untrained Walker very vulnerable. Given that liability exists, insurance is very strongly recommended, regardless of business size.
If you have a behaviourally complex dog, we recommend hiring an experienced walker who is trained and insured, and better equipped to deliver on need. A Walk-and-Train trainer is also a great choice—in many ways a better choice, depending on the dog. If you have a Trainer and a Walker, they should be working together as a team so the dog benefits from consistent and seamless training between them.
Walkers have client contracts. This is because liability is high. It is in their interest to decrease liability wherever possible and come to agreement on how liability is divided between the owner and the Walker. It is in an Owner’s interest to understand what their obligations are. The contract you receive should be a legally-prepared one.
Walkers must be able to perform some assessment of the dog before he comes into service. So, the contract will ask for information on all necessary behavioural, food/treats, allergy notices, vaccinations, medical, microchip and veterinary data that a Walker requires. This data is critical for several reasons, among them being:
• Walkers uphold a vigorous Do No Harm ethic and none will jeopardize any pup in their care.
• If required vaccinations are not current and appropriate tags are not on the pup (ie: dog license, rabies), the Walker can be fined. Owners are required to maintain proper vaccinations so their pups are in good health and disease is contained. Any fines given to Walkers for vaccinations not administered or licenses not obtained are to be paid by Owners.
A contract should also include a Terms & Waiver section that explains how a Walker works, emergency protocols, expectations on both sides, their cancellation policy, and which also gives them permission to enter your home to pick up and drop off the dog.
Owners are required to approve contracts before walks begin. Contracts do not supersede law, however. Work with a walker whose contract is a legal one and consult the laws and bylaws in your region.
Walker fees are more or less consistent across Canada.
• Median pricing for group walks is $20-$30/hour
• Median pricing for private walks is $25-$30/half-hour or $25-$35/hour, depending on the complexity of the dog
• Median pricing for puppy visits is $25-$30/visit
Owners should feel free to do their research, of course. CDWA cautions against hiring lowballers. These people are typically too young to appreciate the liability they carry and/or too inexperienced to handle dogs appropriately or responsibly. This creates substantial risk for pups.
Cancellations can prove problematic for professional Walkers, who are committed to your pup and hold his/her regular spot. Many will ask for 24-48 hours notice, at minimum, so they may fill the spot a cancellation leaves open, which may or may not be possible.
Since unfilled spots from cancellations generate losses, the industry is investigating a move toward the fixed fee structure that is practiced widely among dog daycares.
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As a rule of thumb, all Walkers should know and reinforce basic training. They will often ask owners what words are used at home, and maintain that continuity (sit, stay, touch, come, down, wait, etc). The more experienced Walkers will teach their charges new words and further basic training, giving their dogs more opportunities to succeed and receive reward.
If a pup shows behavioural issues, such as reactivities, basic training will not address that. At that point, other strategies are necessary and owners will be referred to a certified Trainer. Endeavour to train the pup as quickly as possible so that fear and fear-based behaviours do not have the opportunity to entrench. A Trainer will take a 360° view by assessing the pup’s health, diet, environment, people, history, triggers and behaviours, and formulate a plan that is therapeutic for the pup. A Trainer’s goal is to help the pup, by assisting owners in their interpretation and teaching the skillset and techniques that are necessary to help the dog.
Talk to any industry pro about mental stimulation for dogs and you will win hearts. Mental stimulation games/puzzles/challenges, kongs, tricks training and much more, rank as highly in importance as exercise does. Not only does mental stimulation enrich pups’ lives, but it also allows owners and dogs to engage, which strengthens the bond. It’s also an important tool to engage and satiate smarter breeds and is used as an effective engagement strategy to redirect frustrated, undesirable behaviours into more desirable ones.
In most cases, Walkers will be knowledgeable about specific enrichment tools that your pup may need, at any given time.
Resource: join Canine Enrichment Ideas on Facebook for much more on this.
A great many breeds are known to be very smart and/or working dogs who must have outlets for enrichment. Find out if your dog is one. See the American Kennel Club’s smartest breeds and working breeds.
All pups deserve to have puzzles and games, though, regardless of their ranking. Talk to your Walker or Trainer about mental stimulation exercises for your pup. Heartily recommended.
Exercising dogs gets all those wonderful endorphins flowing, keeps them fit and healthy, extends life, and does its part to minimize diabetes and other issues related to poor conditioning or obesity. Great exercise addresses some behavioural issues as well, as a well-run, high-energy dog will be less destructive around the house and more manageable, overall.
Do you have a high energy breed? Ask a Walker to help with a minimum of two hours of exercise per day, or dog daycare. High energy breeds include Boxer, Vizsla, Shetland Sheepdog, Dalmation, Jack Russel Terrier, Siberian Husky, Golden and Labrador Retrievers, Border Collie, Australian Shepherd, Springer Spaniel, Mini Pinscer (Min-Pin), Poodles (all sizes), Irish Setter, German Shepherd, and Golden or Labradoodles. Beagles can have substantial energy as well, and they are also known to be an intelligent working breed, so extra stimulation is very definitely recommended for them.
The best Walkers will get dogs moving by whatever means available. Either by socialized play, ball chasing, tug, frisbee, swimming—whatever works. A tired dog is a happy dog.
Guided, safe and properly managed socialization is an important—some say critical—offering that off-leash and pack Walkers bring to the table. When a pup is socialized early (4-5 months old, after receiving necessary vaccinations), he is going to be better at being with others.
Walkers, together with puppy training, are the best tools available to socialize dogs. By teaching social manners, placing pups in packs and interpreting and redirecting behaviours properly, pups learn the ropes very quickly when started young. Packs are a social and support system for pups. Pack mates teach pups how to interact, how to play, perceive their world, wait their turn, and be social. The best Walkers reward good behaviour and redirect (not punish) bad behaviours.
Socialization time brings mental and physical well being and rounded experience to dogs. It teaches them how to “dog” and how to be successful within varying environments.
What puppies are anti-social? None is the short answer. However, depending on the age, heritage, history, breed, environment, experiences, diet and training of a dog, there is a spectrum. Dogs who were not socialized early will have a more difficult time learning to socialize as time goes on. It is important to start this young and use positively-based training methods that support socialization.
Canadian Rescues import at-threat dogs from all over the globe to give them a second chance at life. If you have a recent rescue, CDWA wholly recommends hiring a Certified Trainer, who will equip the family with the proper interpretive and training skills to help the pup acclimate to his/her new life prior to ever being off-leash. While Trainers are generally provided by Rescues for one or two sessions, they are most often not Certified Trainers. Parents and rescue pups generally require much more support than that.
Adopt, Don’t Shop | The Caveat
Rehomed and rescued pups are among the most challenging to understand and manage, and they often require a great deal of positive support. Parents of rehomed and rescued pups, therefore, fall into a category where more is more. These Parents need more canine and training knowledge, more trainer support and better tools and technique, if they are to be successful Parents. Also, these Parents require the right knowledge, tools and techniques. We do not recommend a rescue pup adoption to prospective Parents who are not inclined to make that commitment.
See our Resources and find a Certified Trainer. As well, private and/or leashed walks are recommended until a pup is fully acclimated and reliable.
Walkers have careers where love and companionship are the hallmark of professionalism and central to every day.
Love and companionship are functionally important. They give dogs allegiance and confidence, and help to develop trust and security with their Walker and in social settings. Pups listen better to those he trusts and loves.
CDWA encourages owners to make every effort to choose their Walker responsibly and work constructively together so that an enduring, loving relationship is built and enjoyed on all three sides. Nurture the relationship. Hearts are in it, along with considerable time investment.
Every Walker is responsible to manage and protect the animals in their care. They cannot put their charges in danger or create circumstances where injury will occur. They take this responsibility seriously, on their own initiative, and as the law requires.
If a dog has a bite history or presents a risk of injury to others, Walkers must minimize risk by all means available. Training, avoidance of triggers, using a muzzle and placing the dog into a more appropriate service—private walks, for instance—are appropriate solutions.
Owners are asked to comply with recommendations for the safety of the dog and those he comes into contact with.
For information on liability, please consult the Dog Owners’ Liability Act for your region.
The standard of care is changing in the industry. Historically, boarding facilities were kennels and veterinarians. Today, however, Walkers and Walker/Boarders are increasingly seen as the gold standard for boarding and dog sitting.
The reason for this is that they are present overnight, which offers a higher level of supervision, comfort and protection of the pet they are entrusted to care for. The pups are in the same dwelling with someone they know, often in the same room.
With respect to information, trained Walkers have more and better information at their disposal. You can take it to the bank and everyone is better served, especially the pup.
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Avoid the Walker and any group of leashed dogs, naturally. Doubly so, if you are walking your dog. Here’s why:
• He/she is at work, concentrating on the effective management of a leashed group, which may be a nice one or a not-so-nice one when distracted from their mission by another human/dog.
• The person you see with a leashed group may be a Trainer, whose dogs might be reactives-in-training. If you and your pup were to charge up to this group excitedly, the effects could be disastrous. Avoid proximity with leashed groups at all times.
• Steer Clear is the golden rule. Allow the pack to maintain their path, undisturbed.
• If it looks like the Walker is struggling with a difficult situation, offer help and if the situation would resolve with your help, they may take you up on it.
• If you want to make contact, wish them a good day—it would make their day if you did. Otherwise, it may not be the time or place for any engagement.
In leash-free, Walkers are constantly assessing the energy, people and dogs within. This, to ensure their dogs have the best experiences, as intended. They may be touring the dogs around the park to keep them moving, or encouraging play in the general population if conditions are favourable.
They might have missed a dropping. If so, let them know their pup gave a gift and the Walker will bag it. Walkers are not responsible to pick up yesterday’s droppings. All park-goers are asked to keep parks as sanitary as possible so that shoes, clothes and dogs remain clean on departure.
Once the dogs are established successfully in the park, all the gifts are bagged, and the Walker seems comfortable, he/she is an amazing resource to answer all those questions you might have. Follow a Walker’s lead when the dogs get tense.
See Park Etiquette for some great information.
All dogs are supposed to be leashed in on-leash zones, without exception, and the great majority of Walkers abide by this.
If you do see a Walker with unleashed dogs in a leashed zone, please do not confront, as this may upset the pack and put everyone at risk. Take picture or video and report the infraction to the proper bylaw enforcement authority in your region.
This applies to public parks and trails. Check signage in the area, as many city trails are designated off-leash.
Different regions have different maximums of dogs that one Walker can have in care together. In Toronto, the legal maximum to one Walker is six (6) dogs. This limit was collaboratively set between the city and Walkers. If a Walker is accommodating more than six dogs, an assistant must be present.
Context is important here. If one of the Walkers is holding seven leashes, and the other holds three, there is likely a good reason for that. One of the Walkers might be injured or is an assistant-in-training and unable to handle more than three. The other dogs may be extreme pullers and the stronger walker is in a better position to manage them.
What matters to CDWA and Bylaw Enforcement is that the pups are under good management and control, and the number of dogs they have is within the maximum established by their municipality.
In a Walker’s day, logistics take effort to work through. Logistics provide the context. A passerby is not in possession of the context. The best thing a passerby can do is avoid the group and Walker(s). If it looks as though they are having difficulty, an offer to help is commendable.
The peak time in leash-free areas is during the midday hours of 11am-2pm. To the average person, the park can feel like it’s over-capacity and overwhelming. Some become frustrated at Walkers for showing up with big groups. Walkers feel it too and use a variety of tactics to manage overcrowding, by choosing less-populated parks, or touring their groups around the perimeter to lessen the numbers in the middle.
Bear in mind that the majority of dog parents want or insist that their dogs be taken out at midday. Walkers strive to accommodate the request. Again, it is important that their dogs are under good management and control.
If the park feels too crowded during the peak hours, there are a couple of options available to alleviate the frustration:
• find out which local leash-free parks are for resident dog parents only, rather than commercial dog walkers, and go there during peak times. Generally, these are smaller areas and much more tranquil.
• opt to leash walk your pup instead and avoid peak time in the leash-free area.
Peak times are unavoidable. Walkers use a resource that exists for the purpose they are using it for. They pay a fee to use it (permits). Working together and understanding client demand should bring some measure of insight into why things are the way they are.
Most Walkers draw immense satisfaction from working with dogs. That said, there are many potential bumps in the road which bring frustration and perils to a day. Every Walker’s first goal is to keep their dogs safe.
Problematic Park Issues:
• Dirty, poopy parks. Everyone in the park is responsible for keeping the park clear of all feces. Here, especially, is not where one should ever pass the buck. See a poop? Pick it up, no matter who let it drop or when. The goal is to keep feces off all dogs, shoes and out of homes. It’s even more important if it is runny stool or vomit—in these cases, contagion becomes an issue. When pups have running stool or are vomiting, it is quite possible that the dog needs to be seen by a veterinarian rather than in the park.
• Distracted Parents who are on the phone, and not nearby to manage their dogs when a problematic situation is stirring.
• Dogs who are not under control, with obnoxious or threatening behaviour. City bylaws require that all dogs be kept under control. It’s harder to accomplish in leash-free areas, where dogs do have more freedom. This, however, requires that all park-goers do more to keep their dogs under control and see certain behaviours for what they are.
Humping and fixation are examples of common obnoxious behaviours that must be managed in leash-free, as both can lead to fights.
Threatening behaviours include resource guarding, over-arousal and resulting aggression, puppy intolerance and attack, and prey drive—these often lead to fights as well. Pups with these threatening behaviours are poor park candidates. Training support and leashed walks are more suitable for these dogs.
• Conflict with humans. Professional Walkers are trained and accomplished business owners and, as such, are not subordinate to other park goers. Yet, they report, with some consistency, that disrespectful treatment by humans in the park is prevalent. Please be kind and respectful.
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The decision whether to have barriers or crates in vehicles is up to the discretion of Walkers. As a rule of thumb, if a short ride gets the dogs to a local leash-free or trail, barriers or gates in the car are enough to separate one or two, more sensitive or problematic dogs away from the rest. Those dogs must be separated.
However, if shangri-la is some glorious acreage and a highway drive away, then crates serve a critical safety function. When properly crate-trained by owners, dogs feel safer in crates than they do when nose-to-nose for lengths of time. If a pup is not feeling well, feel potty urges coming on, or feels threatened, no harm can be done to another when inside a crate. This practice allows the Walker to focus on getting their clients to their destination safely, without conflict or incident.
No one wants dog fights in their vehicle, whether parked or in motion. If a fight does occur, two scenarios are possible: the offending dog never did such a thing before and surprised the Walker, or the Walker knows the dog is problematic and is not safety compliant. In the second case, the walker is liable (knew but did not prevent), and must pay vet bills. Beyond this, the injured dog may have associated trauma that must be treated by a Trainer. The dog who bit must be muzzled and separated, going forward, or is perhaps better transitioned to a more appropriate service model that does not put the dog into a car with others. The reason the dog bit must be addressed.
Dogs who are new to a group must be separated until reliable inter-pack relationships are built and the dog’s behaviours are known and reliable. Managed introductions must be done properly to further that goal.
To the general public, the use of crates in vehicles may be unclear and seem horrible, but they are actually a proactive, preventive safety measure, especially for longer car rides.
During pickups and drop offs, every Walker knows to control the climate in the vehicles for the comfort and safety of their pups.
Windows are open on temperate days, or A/C is on, on hotter, more humid days.
On cold days, there is no need to keep the car running with heat for the pups since they have the shelter of the vehicle and the Walker will return in minutes.
Walkers pick up and drop off dogs. Otherwise known as group changes, it’s part of everyday life and does bring logistical challenges. Walkers train their dogs to exit the vehicle when their name is called. Not every dog, especially younger ones, understands this rule until the training is complete, so if you happen to witness a dog bounding out of a vehicle and a Walker becoming upset, it’s a natural reaction from fear that a dog may become injured (as in, by a passing car). Give the Walker room to get the situation under control.
When unloading, dogs can be over-aroused. Walkers rely on keeping their dogs calm. It is not advisable to push through a partially unloaded pack of excited dogs on the sidewalk. One simply doesn’t know whether a given dog will react in that circumstance. Some dogs react to men, beards, uniforms, hats, fur clothing, wheels (strollers, skateboards, bicycles), cats and babies/toddlers. Kindly give the Walker room to unload and usher dogs into the park, with everyone’s safety in mind.
Please do not approach a car full of dogs. The dogs will come to feel threatened and overwhelmed, leading to trigger responses and other issues. Dogs should be kept calm at all times and their association to a Walker’s vehicle should always be positive.
If you’re concerned about a dog in a hot car, call police at 911 and wait near the car, around 4-6 feet away. If you’re too close, it will stress the dog who may already be in a precarious state. His energy is better served surviving, rather than barking at a stranger who is too close and threatening.
Signs of heat stroke or distress are lack of coordination, lethargy, excessive drooling, vomiting, irregular breathing (not just panting).
If the car is idling high with the windows up and dog is relaxed, it’s a good indicator that the air conditioning (A/C) is on.
Never let the internal temperature of a car exceed 25° celcius. A responsible protocol to use when leaving your own pup in the car:
• On any day with temperatures above 25° celcius, the A/C should be on, whether the vehicle is parked in sun or shade.
• When temperatures are between 10-25°, windows down should suffice.
• In winter, windows up and heat on if temperature is lower than -10° celcius.
• Never leave your dog in the car for longer than 15 minutes.
Please note that it is against the law to smash a car window, unless it is your own car.
In the Spring of 2018, in Ontario, Police have warned that pets are not to be on the laps of any driver, especially in when highway driving. Dogs are allowed in the passenger seat.
Unexpected and abrupt stops can be very problematic for Walkers with dogs in their vehicles.
For everyone’s safety, crossing guards and pedestrians should ensure vehicles make a complete, safe stop before entering into the road. Not doing so may result in accidents or injury to dogs or people.
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